Table of Contents
Prepare the room
Successful painting lies in the work of diligent preparation, and the first few steps are focused on preparing the room and cabinets for painting.
Start by emptying cabinets, wiping counters, and removing any electrical appliances.
Move tables and other furniture to another room.
Tape rosin paper over tables and floors, and, to protect the whole house from dust and smoke, place plastic tape sheets over the backsplash, windows, stainless steel appliances, and interior doors.
Grease the wall around the cabinets.
Set up a worksheet to paint doors, drawers, and shelves.
Remove doors, drawers, and shelves
Be sure to mark each cupboard in front of the door with a marker to prevent clutter. The best place for this sign is behind the hinge.
Replace hinge screws on the cabinet frame and remove doors.
Working from left to right, top to bottom, each label with a numbered piece of tape. Also, number the edges of the cabinet shelves and the bottom of the drawers.
Set aside the hardware hanging on the shelf.
In your app table, remove drag and drop and save recycled.
At the doors, transfer the number from the tape to the exposed wood under one hinge.
Cover it with new tape.
Clean all areas
Clean the cabinet by spraying it with a degreaser solution and wipe the floor with a rag. This removes all fats and oils that can prevent a complete breakdown. If standard cleaners do not work, consider using a powerful filter such as trisodium phosphate (TSP), which is sold in hardware and paint stores. Just make sure you follow the safety measures in the container.
When all the pieces of the cabinet are clean, wash them thoroughly with water and let them dry.
Arrange the boxes
Open the windows to let in air and install safety equipment. Using an abrasive pad dipped in liquid deglosser, scrub down all areas.
Hold the rag on the bottom to catch the drips. Before the deglosser evaporates, quickly wipe off the residue with another clean, sold-out cloth.
When moving hardware, fill the holes of the old screw with a two-piece polyester or autobody filler.
It lasts about 5 minutes, so combine only small batches. The filler shrinks slightly, so fill the holes slightly.
As soon as it sets, removes excess with a sharp paint scraper. When completely solid, the sand is smooth.
Use a foam sanding block to wipe cabinet areas, drawers, and doors. This simple sanding is intended to give the primer something to stick to, so do not sand in the bare wood. Use a scraper cloth to remove sanding dust before proceeding.
Tighten the cabinets inside and out to make sure there are no dust particles that damage the ends, and then scrub them with a pull-out cloth to get extra volume.
Prime cabinet boxes
Now it’s time to start. If the cabinets are very stained, use a primer that prevents stains, that will dry out quickly, and close knots and other defects that may bleed with the extra coats. In most cases, however, stain-blockers should not be needed, and an oil-based latex primer or 100% will work best.
Pour the primer into the paint tray and load the roller with a brush. Using a brush on the edges and hard surfaces, as well as a roller on large, flat areas, lubricate the cabinet, doors, and front cabinets with a primer coat.
To start at the top of the cabinet, scrape the primer across the grain, then “tap down” – move the brush lightly over the wet end where the grain goes. Always advise on one stroke from one end to the other.
Be sure to follow the structure under the cabinet or door with a brush. When the railway line exits the stall, for example, paint the train first, skip the railway slightly, and then paint the strike before the breakdown dries up.
While allowing the primer to dry, wash your brush and roller sleeve, and pour the extra primer on the board before washing the paint tray.
Sand, caulk, and fill
After the primer has dried, coat the flat areas with 220 grit paper.
Use any profile areas with a sanding sponge with a central grit. The wood should keep it feeling smooth.
Squeeze small beads of latex caulk into any open stitches. (The tip of the caulk tube should not be larger than a sharp pencil tip.)
Pull the tip as you go, and smooth the caulk with a wet finger. Fill any small teeth, scratches, or dings with vinyl spackle, and a flat surface with a putty knife.
Once the spackle is dry (about 60 minutes), we re-apply 220 grit paper, wipe, and wipe with a damp cloth.
With an oil-based primer, spray can dry quickly, place the spackle in front of any areas where the sandpaper “burns” the primer.
Wait an hour, then lightly coat the primer with 280-grit paper.
Vacue all over the top then wipes with a damp cloth.
Paint cabinet boxes
You are finally ready to paint! If you use about the same shade as the existing color, two coats should do the job. You may run away with one. Painting in a dark-colored area is strong and may require three coats. Take out a new brush for each coat.
Pour the cutting paint and cabinet cover into the paint tray and load the brush and roller with paint. Use a brush to cut through the edges, push the paint into corners, and leave out roller stripes. Use a roller to apply its coating paint to a large flat area where possible.
Inside the cabinet, apply paint with a smooth mini roller, leaving the texture of the orange leaf slightly.
Cover the brush and roller with plastic bags to prevent them from hardening while you wait for the first coat to dry.
Between coats, apply a little more surface, making sure you clean the debris afterward.
Put a second coat in the cabinet. This coat should provide a complete, consistent finish without any small or light areas where wood may be visible.
Repair, start, and paint doors, drawers, and shelves
The strategy for repairing, remodeling, and drawing doors, drawers, and shelves are similar to that of cabinets, except that all work is done on a table to reduce the chance of dripping, running, and sagging.
When drawing wooden doors, start with the area around the panel.
Then, make the main panel field, and finish with stiles and rails around the edges.
As you go along, wipe off any paint that ends up in a dry area nearby to eliminate lap marks.
When you have finished painting, take the door with a screw and one hook and hang both hooks on a tight clothes hanger.
Hang the door on the wall of the shower curtain or clothespin until it is dry.
Return all pieces
When the second coat is dry, re-attach the door and front to the cupboard. Enjoy the fact that you have given your kitchen cabinets a new look without investing a lot of time or money.
Remove the tape over the number of each door, insert the hinges and buttons, and hang them on the original opening.
Replace drawer drawers (or add new ones) and refresh each drawer.
